The Victorian Period...3

Perhaps the clearest evidence of change can be seen when contrasting female fashion for the early to the late Victorian periods.

Women’s dresses in the 1840s included a tight sleeve below the shoulder that made it impossible for the woman to raise her arms above a right angle. Petticoats that were worn under a large skirt could weigh as much as fourteen pounds. Since the walks were not paved, it can be imagined what condition these long dresses would be in at the end of a day.

Loose shawls were later replaced by close-fitting cloaks and mantles. Corsets were worn to make the waist smaller. In the 1860s the cage crinoline replaced the petticoats, reducing the weight of the dress. However, the crinoline had from nine to eighteen hoops and extended out so far that they were beyond the control of the wearer. In the 1870s the bustle replaced the crinoline. It left the front of the dress straight and only the back puffed out. However, there were trains several yards long trailing behind the skirt which made walking difficult. The “age of restriction” seems to best describe Victorian dress to this point.

In the 1880s the Dress Reform Movement which included women took place. There were tailored dresses that were simple in design and mass produced. Sports “costumes” were also introduced. Finally, in 1895, the bicycling “new woman” adopted the “bloomer,” a short skirt and trouser outfit that had been introduced in America in 1851 by Amelia Bloomer. Women no longer wanted to be ornamental or the angel in the house.